Rooting Fig Cuttings New System of Propagation

New system of propagation of rooting fig cuttings i discribe below.  As far as I know, Turkey has the highest award for fig production in the world, but it is second only to where it was first seen in the Mission Garden in California in 1769. If you are hoping to grow your own fig tree or fig orchard, my opinion would be that you can produce more figs without spending too much using cutting method. Figs breed easily from cuttings and most commercial fig growers thus reproduce their own trees. Fig trees (Ficus carica) were observed in the US Department of Agriculture for 8 to 10 working days in drought prone areas.

Fig trees are unlikely to be crushed in the corner of the garden. These trees are tall and broad and their dense leaves give full shade to the soil below. The tree looks great. As far as I know, some fig trees grow up to 50 feet tall, but fig trees in the backyard usually stay below 30 feet. But there is no reason to worry, figs planted in tubs are usually up to 6 feet tall. The leaves are deeply lobed and bright green. Tree-planted trees grow easily, and even trees cut in the ground can easily regenerate from their roots. Routing hormones can help cut your roots, although cuttings can be fine roots without it.

The cut should be spent two weeks in a warm, humid environment. You can wrap them in a damp paper towel and put them in a plastic bag to finish the cut edges. Plant the cuttings in a soil filled container, bury the cuttings so that half of each cut is below the soil level. Place the cut of the pot in the open sun.

System of Propagation of Fig Trees from Cuttings

Types of cuts:
Cuttings can be made from any part of the tree. In most cases, however, a stem or leaf is used. A stem cutter consists of pieces of stems and attached leaves or buds. Thus, to be a complete, independent plant, only new roots need to be formed for cutting the stalks. A leaf cutter uses only leaves, so both new roots and new shoots need to be formed to create a new plant. Visit to see more plantation details in svg.

1. Cut the stems
2. Herbal
3. Softwood
4. Semi-solid wood
5. Hard wood
6. leaves Cutting
7. Cut the roots

Cut the stems
Stem cuttings can be taken from both medicinal plants (e.g., garden flowers and house seedlings) and woody plants and shrubs. As summer progresses and the new growth of trees and shrubs hardens, cuttings taken at different times of the year change their ability to form roots. Softwood and herbaceous cuttings are less likely to develop roots and become independent plants, while hardwoods are less likely to be cut.

Herbal
The plant can grow actively at any time if the stem is cut from a medicinal plant.

Softwood
Soft wood is prepared from the soft, juicy new growth of cut wood when it begins to harden (usually from May to July). Shoots will snap easily when bent at the softwood stage. The young leaves have not yet reached their mature form.

Semi-solid wood
Semi-hardwood cut wood is taken from the growth of the current season after maturation. The wood is hard and all the leaves are full size. It occurs from mid-July to early fall for most trees. Many broad-leaved evergreens (e.g., boxwood, holly, rhododendron) can be propagated by cutting semi-solid wood.

Another Cuttings

Hard wood
Hardwood cuttings are prepared from shoots grown in the previous summer. These are harvested in winter or early spring when the tree is still dormant. The wood is hard and does not bend easily. Some deciduous shrubs and needles will originate from evergreen hardwood cuttings.

leaves Cutting
Leaf cuttings are made from a single leaf of the tree. This leaf needs not only new roots but also new shoots. The leaves used for breeding do not usually become part of the new plant, but become detached after the new plant is formed. Only a limited number of trees have the ability to form new roots and shoots from a single leaf.

Cut the roots
Cuttings from the roots can also be used, but only a few species can be propagated in this way. Cuttings are taken when the plant is dormant and the roots have the most energy stored. Each root produces two to three new stems and each stem produces its own roots. The main roots are cut.

Master System of Propagation in Two Types

Basically two system:

• no.1. Outdoor
• No.2 Indoor

Outdoor:
The first method of propagation outside the fig tree depends on the temperature of the dormant season which never falls below freezing. Ground layering is a method of rooting figs by burying a portion of a low-growing branch with a 6 to 8 inch (15-20 cm) portion of the tip shown above the ground and allowing the buried portion to take root before being cut. From the main tree. Although this is the easiest way to reproduce figs, it can be awkward to maintain the soil during branch roots.

Outdoor fig roots are a popular method of cutting outdoor fig roots. Towards the end of the dormant season, after the risk of frost has reduced, take fig cuttings from small branches that are two to three years old. They should be about 6 to 8 inches (1.3-1.9 cm) thick, the width of your pink and 8-12 inches (20-30 cm) long. The bottom edge should be flat and the tip should be cut diagonally.

Treat oblique edges with sealants and routing hormones to prevent disease. When learning how to start a fig tree in this way, it is best to use six to eight shoots to make room for some failures. You can always give away multiple successes! Plant the flat edge of the fig root in a 6 inch (15 cm) deep hole 6 inches (15 cm) wide and about one foot (30 cm) apart. Good water, but not on water. In one year, your fig cuttings can grow 36-48 inches (91-122 cm). New trees will be ready for replacement in the next dormant season.

Indoor System

This method of reproducing rooted figs inside the fig house involves how the fig tree can be started indoors. This method is best to start early if your spring weather is unstable. Follow the procedure above to cut figs. Line the bottom of a 6-inch (15 cm.) Pot with newspaper and add 2 inches (5 cm.) Of sand or potting soil. Stand up straight in the four cut pots you have treated and fill with soil all around. Thoroughly pour water into the container and place a 2-liter bottle on top and bottom of the cut.

Place fig cuttings in warm and bright (not direct sun) windows. Do not water until the soil is very dry. Wait a week for temporary greenhouse removal to see your new growth. When you see strong growth, plant your rooted figs in large pots or outside when the weather allows. Keep transplants moist for the rest of the summer and watch them grow. As you can see, how to reproduce a fig tree is a simple process and if done properly it is a satisfying and fruitful experience. Happy birthday!

Recommendation of Hardwood Cutting

New system of propagation of rooting fig cuttings

• Select a strong stem.
• Cut the length of the stems formed last summer (depending on the species it may be 1-2 feet long).
• Cut and trim in the following ways:
• Working from the base of the stem, cut just below a node.
• With a pencil, gently draw a line 2 inches above this cut. The part of the stem between the cut and the line will remain in the routing mixture.
• Make a second cut 2-6 inches above the line, making sure there are at least two buds in this part.

• Remove the buds from 2 inches below the stem so that they do not grow during the root period.

• Peel a squash, grate it and squeeze the juice. Cut deep enough to expose the green layer beneath the bark, but not so deep that the stem is cut in half.

• Apply rooting hormone to a minimum 1 inch stem and place in a moist rooting mixture up to the pencil line. Rooting mixture around the firm.
• Two to five cuttings are available from each stem. If the rest of the stem is long enough, repeat steps three to six. Make sure the edge of the cut you are tracking is the base and which is the top. The cutting base, not the top, should always be placed in the routing mixture.
• There are now two options depending on the facilities and equipment available.

More Info

If you have a cold garage and heating system to keep the routing mixture warm, place the pot in the cooling garage heating system. Cold air will prevent the buds from opening and forming leaves and the heater will keep the mixture warm enough to form roots (65 to 75 ° F). As long as the heater can keep the routing mixture between 65 ° F and 75 ° F, it is acceptable for the air temperature to drop below freezing. For information on heated bed construction, read HO-53: Hot Bed and Cold Frame.

If you do not have a cold garage with heating system, keep the pot in a plastic bag as you would like to cut herbs and keep it in a warm room. The buds will open in two or three weeks, but the plastic bag should keep more moisture around the leaves and prevent excess water loss. Make sure the pot is in a bright place, it is not overheated and the original mixture is moist but not waterlogged. Check the roots every two to three weeks. Adapt to the rooted cuttings described for cutting soft wood with warm, low humidity

Growth Idea of Fig

New system of propagation of rooting fig cuttings According to California’s rare fruit growers, common figs (Ficus carica) and many other varieties of figs work best in an area with a Mediterranean-style climate. This means hot, dry summers and cold winters. According to the University of Florida IFAS Extension, the cooling requirement for a fig tree (the time a tree must spend per year at temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit) may be less than 300 hours but less than 100 hours.

It is more difficult to cultivate figs in summer where it rains frequently. Rainfall during fig growth and ripening may result in splitting of fruits. Similarly, figs are difficult to grow in cold regions. Some varieties and varieties have been developed to be cultivated in low hardiness areas. For example, according to Epic Gardening, Chicago hardy figs, also called Bensonhurst purple figs, can withstand temperatures up to USDA Hardness Zone 6.

Containers Growing of Fig Trees

New system of propagation of rooting fig cuttings. In colder climates, gardeners are accustomed to growing frost-tolerant plants in pots. Whether the plant is a flowering plant or a fruit tree, this method allows the gardener to take the plant to a safe place for the winter. The space can be a enclosed patio or garage unless the plant is exposed to very cold temperatures or icy winds.

Given that most figs can only grow in USDA Zone 8 or above, this excludes outdoor cultivation in many areas. One way to solve this problem is to grow fig trees in pots. According to the Old Farmers Almanac, it is a good choice when your temperature drops below 10 degrees Fahrenheit in winter.

To grow a fig tree in a pot, you need a mixture of a pot and a soil-based pot. Fig trees need good drainage, so you can add fine bark chips or sand to allow free flow of water. Make sure there are adequate drainage holes along the container. The roots of the fig tree will rot if they sit on wet soil.

In summer, move the figs to full sun in pots, feeding the plants with a high-nitrogen fertilizer every month during the growing season. Fig trees do not need much water, but they do need some, so irrigate when the top inch of soil is dry. In winter, you need to take the plant to a safe place and water it every few weeks. Due to the need to remove the tree, Stark Brothers advises that you start with a small pot and replace as needed, never pick a heavy ornamental pot. You can even choose a container with built-in wheels for easy navigation.

Related cuttings